Coconut Porter Dry Coconutting And Sample Tasting

I'm making a coconut porter. The base is a porter I've brewed several times now. I actually have the recipe locked and after 5 years of brewing it's only the third recipe I consider unchangeable. It's perfect for adjuncts because it's not too roasty or hoppy. It's english style, slightly chocolaty with very low esters so it's an easy drinker. I most recently used it for a vanilla porter and that turned out fantastic.

I've read several articles on the best way to add coconut to beer. I've also tasted a few samples and there seems to be a couple ways to make the flavor really stand out. One is to use a shit-ton of coconut, like 2lbs/gallon. That seems extreme. Another I gathered from tasting and that's to use a tincture or spirits barrel aging to enhance the flavor. The best coconut beer I ever had was aged in a rum barrel. I had that side by side with the version not aged it the barrel and it was like night and day.

Some people said to lace it through the entire brewing process (mash, boil, secondary), others say to roast the coconut and still others say to use sweetened coconut. With all this advice there's only one way to find out what really works and that's through trial and error. Here is what I did and some partial results. I'll be sure to post final tasting notes on this beer.

I brewed my porter per my normal process and added 1lb of unsweetened organic finely shredded coconut at knock out. After 1 week of fermentation I roasted 3 lbs of coconut in the oven at 300F making sure to turn it frequently (about every 4-5 minutes) to make sure it wouldn't burn. I stuffed all of that into a sanitized hop bag (I don't think it would filter out well).

Before adding the dry roasted coconut into the completely fermented porter I drew a sample to see how the 1 lb at knock out affected the beer. Unfortunately it didn't seem to add any coconut to the beer. The sample tastes exactly how I remember this beer tasting after fermentation and before carbonation. Slightly chocolatey very smooth and delicious but no coconut. Next time I do this I'll triple the coconut at knock out, hopefully the dry roasted coconutting will add some of the flavor I'm looking for. It it's not to my satisfaction I have another 4 lbs of coconut and I'll continue with a second dry coconutting.

Simplifying Homebrewing - Grains

I recently purchased 12 - 1 gallon PET storage containers to hold my adjuncts and grains. I live quite a distance from the nearest homebrew supply store and since I'm not very good about planning my brew days I keep quite a few grains on hand. I thought 12 containers would be enough to hold the various bags of grain in my storage locker but I was just plain wrong. So now I'm going to attempt to outline what 12 grains I should have on hand that will allow me to brew the most variety of beers. I could just buy more containers but since I'm trying to be more budget conscious, and I have a limited amount of space I thought I would try this route.

Frequently Brewed Beers

I should probably start with a list of beers I know I brew repeatedly. That will help pick some of the grains to keep on hand.

1. Panhead Supercharger Clone - About 2-4x/year.
2. IPA 2x/year
3. Hefe 2x/year
4. Saison - 2x/year in the summer
5. Brown Ale - 2-3x/year
6. Porter - 2-3x/year
7. Stout - 1-2x/year (Includes RIS)
8. Barley Wine 1x/year
9. Winter Warmer 1x/year
10. Belgian Dark Strong 1x/year
11. Munich Dunkel 1x/year
12. Doppelbock 1x/year
13. Sours 4x/year (Includes Kettle Soured)

Base Malt

I keep a 50lb bag of Briess 2-Row for my base malt but have found recently that I'm brewing a lot of English beers and I keep buying 10lb bags of Marris Otter. I'm contemplating a complete change to Marris Otter but it's going to mess with my brewing budget. 2-Row is $50, I think Marris Otter is more like $65 a bag.

Crystal Malts

I'm a huge fan of cherry and dark fruit flavors in my beers so I definately want Special B, British 135/165 and C120. The supercharger clone used c20 and honey malt so those are a must.

1. Crystal 20
2. Crystal 40 - Layering in Brown and amber ales
3. Crystal 80 - Layering
4. Crystal 120
5. Crystal (british) 135/165
6. Belgian Special B

Well there's half the containers just in crystal malts. After black malts there won't be much left. I could cut out the crystal 40 if I find I'm frequently missing something else but I think I can make this work.

Black Malts

My porter uses carafa II or midnight wheat, I like the wheat better. The stouts use chocolate and roast malt. If I include a black patent type malt I'm screwed for much else. I need a flaked barley for quite a few of these darker beers, especially if I ferment with a highly attenuative yeast it sort of rounds the beer out, so I'll leave off the black patent for now.

1. Midnight Wheat or Carafa Special
2. Chocolate Malt
3. Roasted Barley

Other Malts

My stouts and porters also call for either flaked oats or flaked barley for some creaminess. If I have to choose just one I'll go with flaked barley, I think it adds a little more body with the creamy mouth feel.

1. Honey Malt
2. Flaked Barley
3. Biscuit/Victory

Biscuit malt is good for layering in several types of beer. The munich dunkel, browns, porters and stouts all benefit from some biscuit malt. 

I left out wheat malt which I use quite frequently between the wheat beers and sours but those are beers I usually plan out a bit. They are seasonal like the Barleywine, BDS, Winter Warmer and Doppelbock.

I'm sure this list will change over time as my brewing tastes change, or I realize I missed something I use quite frequently.

Homebrewing Obsession

As with many people in this hobby homebrewing has become an obsession for me. When I'm not actually brewing I'm planning my next brew, shopping for ingredients, developing recipes, reading every book I can get my hands on, reading every blog I can find, and watching every video; even the corny tasting vids, or what I'm up to vids.

I had a long weekend this past weekend and I ended up brewing twice. That doesn't seem like a big deal but when you consider I started by brewing about 4x a year followed up by maybe every six weeks then once a month, twice a month until I'm pretty much brewing once every weekend now. I don't know why I do this, I end up giving a lot of beer away plus it's increased my own drinking quite a bit.

I mostly do it because I'm still experimenting. I'm still trying to find the magical hop combinations, get that 50 point stout or Belgian dark strong, and figure out what's working for a specific style of beer. I believed this is taking so long for me because I'm all over the place. I'm not brewing a single style until I nail it, I don't like drinking the same beer all the time so I'm always changing what I'm brewing. I don't see anything particularly wrong with that, in fact I think it's keeping me interested in this hobby.

This is not the first time I've brewed more than once on a weekend but this time had me thinking I either need another hobby or to create more projects around the house. The second brew day was on Sunday and I was just killing time until football started at 1PM. I had already made breakfast and cut/sauted vegetables and meat for a stew. That done I wondered what I was going to do until the Bills game, impromptu brew day!

My previous hobby (computers) was a complete obsession as well, so much so that it turned into college and my day job. That worked out pretty well for me and actually kept me so busy for years that I didn't need another hobby. Well that, owning/maintaining a home, and raising a child with my wife. Of course as with anything I got better and better at it until it wasn't occupying as much of my time and then came homebrewing :).

As I said above none of this is a problem until you realize how much money you're spending on the hobby. You always "need" some new piece of equipment or to replace one you've outgrown/broken. When you brew every week you spend a lot of money on ingredients and a lot of time brewing. I didn't realize just how much I was spending until put myself on a brewing budget. It's been about two months now and even with the fairly large $200/month limit I placed on myself I'm having a hard time keeping to it. I blew my entire November budget after planning through all of October for what I would need. I had bugs in one of my bags of grain so I "needed" new storage jars for the grains I keep in stock (my LHBS is 50 minutes away). I ordered 12 PET 1 gallon storage jars and with shipping those were $60. A bag to 2-Row was $50+tax. The rest was spent on grains for stouts and porters, yeast and hops, and it went quickly. Well I broke my last hydrometer while cleaning on my first brewday this weekend so I went without for the second brew and I'll continue to go without until my December budget. Not the worst thing, I know my system and my numbers are usually pretty close to estimated plus I have the Tilt which is spot on for the OG and usually only a point or two off on the FG.

So I looked back at my homebrew spending in the months prior to starting the budget and it was absolutely ridiculous. Anywhere from $200 to $600, in a month!!!! This year I built a new mash tun, bought a Hydra immersion chiller, 3 hydrometers, 2 new perlick faucets, new gas and beer lines, a 20lb co2 tank, 2 gauge pressure regulator, 5 new fermentation buckets, 5 homebrew books, 2 magazine subscriptions, went to HomebrewCon in Baltimore ($1500) and bought  several items for my homebrew club. I know I've missed some things too. I think this qualifies as obsessed spending.

To top all of this craziness off I write in this blog once or twice a week just because homebrewing is always on my mind. There's not too many reading this blog, if any, but I keep writing because it's a way to think about and review my homebrewing.

I remember I used to love reading for fun, it may be time to recapture the love of an old hobby that doesn't have me spending money as fast as I make it.

Big Beautiful Barleywine

I brewed my first Barleywine a couple weeks ago. I love the style, it's a great beer to sip on in the middle of winter. I didn't have the sense to take a bunch of pictures but I do have a shot of my 17.5 gallon mash tun filled for a partigyle brew from the Barleywine mash :). The Barleywine mash itself was at the very top.

Since this was my first attempt at a Barleywine I purchased a great resource on the subject that never made it to me by brew day :(. 

I ordered this book along with some canning jars which broke during shipping so Fedex sent it back to the sender and I had to rely on my usual resources for brewing a new style. The BJCP guidelines, AHA recipes section, and microbreweries that list ingredients for their beers (I love the breweries that do this! Thank you Smuttynose, Ommegang, Avery etc...)

I chose to brew an English version of Barleywine, I like the complex malty and estery/fruity profile of this version without the added layers of hopping. I plan on aging the majority and enjoying it over the next few years to see how it evolves, according to the book above I made the right choice as the less hoppy English versions tend to age better.

Here is the recipe:

Overview

Name	Category	Brewer	OG	FG	ABV	SRM	IBU
Untested: English Barley Wine	English Barleywine	FerventBrewer	1.102	1.032	9.3 %	18.0 SRM	50.5 IBUs

Fermentables

Amount	Name	Diastatic Power	Color	Notes
16 lbs	Brewers Malt 2-Row (Briess)	140.0000000	1.8 SRM	Flavor:Mild Malty Smoother, less grainy flavor than 6-row
4 lbs	Munich Malt, Germany (Avangard)	72.0000000	9.5 SRM	A malt with enough diastatic power to convert itself but often used in conjunction with other base malts to contribute maltiness and an orange color.
4 lbs	Vienna Malt (Gambrinus)	90.0000000	6.0 SRM	Higher kilning temperatures give this Vienna malt its deep golden color and strong malt flavor.
8.0 oz	Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L	0.0000000	40.0 SRM	Adds body, color and improves head retention. Also called "Crystal" malt.
8.0 oz	Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L	0.0000000	80.0 SRM	Adds body, color and improves head retention. Also called "Crystal" malt.
8.0 oz	Crystal 150, 2-Row, (Great Western)	0.0000000	150.0 SRM	Crystal 150 (145-155°L) Similar to the C120, but with a much more intense flavor and color. May get a hint of the burnt character.

Hops

Amount	Name	Alpha Acids	Time	Notes
0.75 oz	Warrior	15.0000000	60.0 min	High alpha hops from Yakima Chief Ranches. Also called YCR-5. Mild aroma and low cohumulone content - primarily for bittering. Used for: Ales, stouts Aroma: Neutral, clean, mild Substitutes: Nugget, Columbus, Magnum
1.00 oz	Fuggle	4.5000000	20.0 min	Traditional English-type aroma hop. Used for: English Ales, ESB, Bitter, Lagers Aroma: Mild, soft, fruity, spicy, woody Substitute: Fuggle (U.S.), Willamette, Styrian Golding Storage: Good/Very Good (70-80% AA after 6 months at 20 C) 3-5.6% AA 2-3% Beta
1.00 oz	Chinook	13.0000000	10.0 min	Strong versatile bittering hop Used for: Ales, porters, stouts Aroma: Heavy and spicy aroma Substitutes: Galena, Eroica, Nugget, Bullion Examples: Sierra Nevada Stout, Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale
1.00 oz	Fuggle	4.5000000	10.0 min	Traditional English-type aroma hop. Used for: English Ales, ESB, Bitter, Lagers Aroma: Mild, soft, fruity, spicy, woody Substitute: Fuggle (U.S.), Willamette, Styrian Golding Storage: Good/Very Good (70-80% AA after 6 months at 20 C) 3-5.6% AA 2-3% Beta
1.00 oz	Mt. Hood	6.0000000	2.0 min	Used for: European Lagers, finishing Aroma: Mild with a clean aroma, neutral flavor. Somewhat pungent. Substitutes: Hallertauer, Liberty, Crystal

Yeast

Amount	Name	Attenuation	Notes
35.49 ml	English Ale	66.5000000	Classic ESB strain best for English style milds, bitters, porters and English style stouts. Leaves a clear beer with some residual sweetness.

Mash Steps

Amount	Type	Name	Ratio	Temp	Time	Description
8.47 gal	Infusion	Mash In	1.250 qt/lb	66.6666667	45.0000000	Add 8.47 gal of water at 171.2 F

I did take a couple liberties here. I used 2-Row with a mix of munich and vienna to emulate a more complex base malt like marris otter. This choice was one of convenience, I had munich and vienna and no marris otter. The other was using chinook, I had 1oz left from my harvest this year and the bag had come unsealed so I wanted to use it up. They smelled amazing so I backed off my bittering addition and added some chinook toward the end of the boil.

Brew day was pretty easy and I only added about an hour to the end of my normal brew day for the partigyle, it's nice having some extra equipment laying around.

I bottled it last weekend before reading (or even receiving) Barley Wine. My plan was to bottle condition for 90+ days, the book suggests a 90 day conditioning in secondary then another 90 days of bottle conditioning before release. Since I already fucked that up I go with my original plan as follows.

• 2 weeks - Taste a bottle after carbonation
• Taste 1 bottle every month until I'm happy with the results
• Save 5 bottles marked with a year to taste 1 each year for the next 5 years alongside new batches brewed every year
• Give a few bottles as gifts and drink the rest as the mood strikes me

Because I want this to become an annual brew along with my Belgian Dark Strong I started designing a label to have some grogtags made up. What do you think?

I'll try to post some tasting notes somewhere around the 90 day mark then 180 to see how much of a difference it makes.

Fred Eckart Predicts AB inBev's Current Takeover Strategy

In  episode 20 of BrewingTV Fred Eckardt predicts what AB inBev is currently doing to craft beer. Essentially buying it up in order to stay relevant. Have a look starting at 15:45 and ending at 16:45, it's uncanny how on the head he hit that nail. I think 2011 is when AB inBev purchased its first craft brewery that I'm aware of, Goose Island, so this is near a completely uninformed guess as it was published in October of 2010.

Yeast Banking - First Slant

I don't think I wrote about making my slants but I created them when I was canning some extra wort for starters. I wrote about that in this post http://blog.ferventbrewer.com/2016/10/canning-wort-for-starters.html. I simply used the methods taught in this blog post https://suigenerisbrewing.blogspot.com/2015/11/easy-home-yeast-banking-and-video.html?showComment=1476448076312#c8864034177591573235 from Sui Generis, it's a much better resource than I could ever be on the subject.

I did have to wait three days to get this much colonization from streaking. There were a couple small colonies after two days but then boom, full slant on day three.

So the next step was to safely (working around my alcohol lamp and flaming lips) poor my sanitized mineral oil into the slant on top of my colonies to preserve them for up to 3 years! With that done I placed them in my refrigerator for safe keeping!

This process does not take much time or effort to accomplish. I may have added 10 minutes to my last brew day to collect and sterilize my wort, slants and mineral oil and to create my agar slants. I now have enough slants to keep 8 different yeast banked which will save me some real money and trips to the brew store over the next couple of years.

AHA Hidden Corner of Awesomeness

I've been an AHA member  for about 2 years now. I frequent the site and love the access to Zymurgy online, beer trivia, and especially the winner's recipe database.

Well today I found a little gem that makes my membership well worth it. There's a Research and Education Fund section under Community that offers funds to homebrew clubs or individuals who wish to participate in an experiment. The results get posted for completed projects and are available to all AHA members! That's very cool!

If you're an AHA member be sure to check it out (you need to sign in first!) at https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/community/research-and-education-fund/completed-proposals/